Food Scene
Gambrinus
38 Bulevardul Regina ElisabetaShould probably be the first stop on the food and drink list
of any visitor to Bucharest. Wonderful interiors - painted
ceilings, ornate woodwork - make the place an attraction
in itself, but do not leave without trying some food. The
breakfast is worth getting up early for, the sarmale with
mamaliga terrific, and the baked apple a simple, tasty
treat. They even serve their own rather good beer. The
service is usually good and there is
a terrace in summer. We should also mention the touristy
but nevertheless enjoyable folklore show which takes
place most evenings
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Caru' cu bere
5 Strada StavropoleosShould probably be the first stop on the food and drink list
of any visitor to Bucharest. Wonderful interiors - painted
ceilings, ornate woodwork - make the place an attraction
in itself, but do not leave without trying some food. The
breakfast is worth getting up early for, the sarmale with
mamaliga terrific, and the baked apple a simple, tasty
treat. They even serve their own rather good beer. The
service is usually good and there is
a terrace in summer. We should also mention the touristy
but nevertheless enjoyable folklore show which takes
place most evenings
Crama Domneasca
serves huge portions of tasty local
food at more than decent prices.
If you are really on a tight budget,
then one of the city’s many kebab
shops could well be what you
are looking for. The best is Gyros
Thessaloniki on Strada Selari in
the Old Town.
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Crama Domnească
13-15 Strada ȘelariCrama Domneasca
serves huge portions of tasty local
food at more than decent prices.
If you are really on a tight budget,
then one of the city’s many kebab
shops could well be what you
are looking for. The best is Gyros
Thessaloniki on Strada Selari in
the Old Town.
Big, happy to accommodate large
groups and serving great food
often accompanied by some
decent live music, look no further
than the Hard Rock Cafe.
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Hard Rock Cafe
32 Şoseaua Pavel D. KiseleffBig, happy to accommodate large
groups and serving great food
often accompanied by some
decent live music, look no further
than the Hard Rock Cafe.
You probably didn’t come to
Bucharest to eat German food,
but the Deutsche Kneipe is an institution not to be
missed. It serves great homemade
sausages and schnitzels the size
of the Bismarck. Good German
lager on tap and a lovely beer
garden to drink it in.
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Die Deutsche Kneipe
9 Strada StockholmYou probably didn’t come to
Bucharest to eat German food,
but the Deutsche Kneipe is an institution not to be
missed. It serves great homemade
sausages and schnitzels the size
of the Bismarck. Good German
lager on tap and a lovely beer
garden to drink it in.
Popular with expats who have a regular rendezvous here,
this place is a pub and bistro in one, where you can get
a tasty meal for a decent price while enjoying excellent
company. The menu is international with a choice of British dishes - we can recommend both the beef and chicken
pies - but best of all we like the beef sour soup (ciorba de
vacuta) - one of the best in the city. There is Guinness and
Kilkenny on draught: both at a good price. You really can’t
go wrong. tel. (+4) 021 211 31 51, www.trafalgarpub.eu. Open
12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00.
The Trafalgar Pub
4 A Strada David EmanuelPopular with expats who have a regular rendezvous here,
this place is a pub and bistro in one, where you can get
a tasty meal for a decent price while enjoying excellent
company. The menu is international with a choice of British dishes - we can recommend both the beef and chicken
pies - but best of all we like the beef sour soup (ciorba de
vacuta) - one of the best in the city. There is Guinness and
Kilkenny on draught: both at a good price. You really can’t
go wrong. tel. (+4) 021 211 31 51, www.trafalgarpub.eu. Open
12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00.
A veritable Strada Smardan legend of
a venue, whose longevity is a credit to its management
who keep rethinking and reinventing the vast international
menu packed with cracking dishes of all flavours
and making sure there is always good reason to come and
eat, drink or just have one of over 30 coffees here. Indeed,
there is so much to choose from here that making individual
recommendations is pointless. Everyone will find
something they like, and I might add that the desserts
are fab too. It also occupies one of the very best locations
in the Old Town.
Les Bourgeois
20 Strada SmârdanA veritable Strada Smardan legend of
a venue, whose longevity is a credit to its management
who keep rethinking and reinventing the vast international
menu packed with cracking dishes of all flavours
and making sure there is always good reason to come and
eat, drink or just have one of over 30 coffees here. Indeed,
there is so much to choose from here that making individual
recommendations is pointless. Everyone will find
something they like, and I might add that the desserts
are fab too. It also occupies one of the very best locations
in the Old Town.
Bright and airy place that gloriously lets
the light in through its huge windows. Fine food, including
a luscious fried brie with onion marmelade, an outstanding
chicken and artichoke salad, a couple of duck
dishes and good steaks. Prices are more than fair given the
location, setting and quality of food.
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Gargantua Anniversaire
2 Strada IcoaneiBright and airy place that gloriously lets
the light in through its huge windows. Fine food, including
a luscious fried brie with onion marmelade, an outstanding
chicken and artichoke salad, a couple of duck
dishes and good steaks. Prices are more than fair given the
location, setting and quality of food.
Huge, set over two levels, the house is surrounded by a large courtyard and garden, which is superb in the right weather. Pick of the serviceable menu is unquestionably the Ciolan la protap: an enormous, slowly roasted pork knuckle served with
sauerkraut and mamaliga; it’s big enough for two to share.
They serve their own beer, which is highly drinkable and
a bargain at 7.90 lei per pint.
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Hanu' Berarilor Casa Oprea Soare
2 Strada Poenaru BordeaHuge, set over two levels, the house is surrounded by a large courtyard and garden, which is superb in the right weather. Pick of the serviceable menu is unquestionably the Ciolan la protap: an enormous, slowly roasted pork knuckle served with
sauerkraut and mamaliga; it’s big enough for two to share.
They serve their own beer, which is highly drinkable and
a bargain at 7.90 lei per pint.
Built in 1808 the enormous, three-level Hanul lui Manuc
(Manuc’s Inn) is one of Europe’s last remaining caravanserai.
The interior courtyard is a spectacular sight and
essential for any visitor to Bucharest, not least the grand
staircase to your left as you enter from Strada Franceza.
A hostelry ever since it opened the Han is now run by
the City Grill group and has seldom been better. Serves
good, simple Romanian food (the mici are excellent, as is
the enormous lamb shank - enough for two people) and
a more than decent pint.
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Manuc's Inn
62 Strada HalelorBuilt in 1808 the enormous, three-level Hanul lui Manuc
(Manuc’s Inn) is one of Europe’s last remaining caravanserai.
The interior courtyard is a spectacular sight and
essential for any visitor to Bucharest, not least the grand
staircase to your left as you enter from Strada Franceza.
A hostelry ever since it opened the Han is now run by
the City Grill group and has seldom been better. Serves
good, simple Romanian food (the mici are excellent, as is
the enormous lamb shank - enough for two people) and
a more than decent pint.
Decadance Bar
11 Strada Constantin DanielGreat Gastrobar. Trully recommended!
Parks & Nature
The most central of the city’s public gardens, Cismigiu
is a haven of lawns, trees, flowers and lakes. Often mistakenly
referred to as a park, Cismigiu is actually a large
garden, first designed and laid out in 1845 by the German
landscape architect Carl Meyer, but not completed until
1860. More than 30,000 trees and plants were brought in
from the Romanian mountains, while exotic plants were
fetched from the botanical gardens in Vienna. Highlights
of the 17-hectare garden include the Roman Garden, laid
out in the style of ancient Rome, and including busts of
Romania’s most famous writers, the lake, which can be
explored by rowing boat in summer or skated upon during
the winter, and Ion Jalea’s French Memorial in Carrara
marble, which commemorates those French troops killed
on Romanian territory during World War I. The park has a
couple of cafes, refreshment kiosks and - in summer - terraces, as well as some good, large children’s playgrounds.
It can get very busy in good weather, but it is a lovely
place to spend time.
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Cișmigiu Park
Bulevardul Regina ElisabetaThe most central of the city’s public gardens, Cismigiu
is a haven of lawns, trees, flowers and lakes. Often mistakenly
referred to as a park, Cismigiu is actually a large
garden, first designed and laid out in 1845 by the German
landscape architect Carl Meyer, but not completed until
1860. More than 30,000 trees and plants were brought in
from the Romanian mountains, while exotic plants were
fetched from the botanical gardens in Vienna. Highlights
of the 17-hectare garden include the Roman Garden, laid
out in the style of ancient Rome, and including busts of
Romania’s most famous writers, the lake, which can be
explored by rowing boat in summer or skated upon during
the winter, and Ion Jalea’s French Memorial in Carrara
marble, which commemorates those French troops killed
on Romanian territory during World War I. The park has a
couple of cafes, refreshment kiosks and - in summer - terraces, as well as some good, large children’s playgrounds.
It can get very busy in good weather, but it is a lovely
place to spend time.
Bucharest’s fabulous Botanical Gardens were founded in
1860 with the significant financial backing of Prince Alexandru
Ioan Cuza, at the time the leader of the nascent
Romanian state. Completed in 1866 to the designs and
instructions of Ulrich Hoffmann, they were originally in
the grounds of the Cotroceni Monastery, moving to their
present location in 1884. The garden, administratively part
of Bucharest University’s Botanical Institute, today extends
over an area of more than 17 hectares, and hosts more than
10,000 species of plants, approximately half of which are
cultivated in the impressive glasshouses. Of particular note
are the exotic flowers (more than 1000 are on display) and
the bizarre Symphytum ottomanum, a plant which can
appear to vanish without trace only to reappear up to 50
metres away. The recently renovated glasshouses are fabulous, and kids love the wide variety of strange plants inside, especially the cacti and the Venus fly traps. Many locals like to take advantage of the bargain entrance fee and use the exterior of the gardens as a park, and thus the place can often be far more full with courting couples than with lovers of more floral delights. Whatever your reasons for going, it’s a terrific place to spend a morning.
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Gradina Botanica station
Bucharest’s fabulous Botanical Gardens were founded in
1860 with the significant financial backing of Prince Alexandru
Ioan Cuza, at the time the leader of the nascent
Romanian state. Completed in 1866 to the designs and
instructions of Ulrich Hoffmann, they were originally in
the grounds of the Cotroceni Monastery, moving to their
present location in 1884. The garden, administratively part
of Bucharest University’s Botanical Institute, today extends
over an area of more than 17 hectares, and hosts more than
10,000 species of plants, approximately half of which are
cultivated in the impressive glasshouses. Of particular note
are the exotic flowers (more than 1000 are on display) and
the bizarre Symphytum ottomanum, a plant which can
appear to vanish without trace only to reappear up to 50
metres away. The recently renovated glasshouses are fabulous, and kids love the wide variety of strange plants inside, especially the cacti and the Venus fly traps. Many locals like to take advantage of the bargain entrance fee and use the exterior of the gardens as a park, and thus the place can often be far more full with courting couples than with lovers of more floral delights. Whatever your reasons for going, it’s a terrific place to spend a morning.
Anyone who still thinks that Bucharest is a city of concrete
and cement has clearly never been to the city’s lung, the
incomparable Herastrau Park. Quite simply, this glorious
park, spread over 187 hectares around Herastrau lake is
one of the jewels in Bucharest’s crown, which might explain
why half of the city chooses to spend its summer Sunday afternoons here. Fear not though, for so big is Herastrau
that it never gives the impression of being crowded,
and even on the busiest of days you will always be able
to find a quiet, shady corner somewhere. If you look hard
enough. Herastrau was laid out from 1930-36 on what had
until then been mainly marshland around the (natural)
lake. You can
rent bikes from I’Velo, close to the entrance. Rental costs 5
lei per hour, or 15 lei for a full day. Under-16s and over-65s
can rent bikes for free, but for a maximum of two hours.
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Iphakamisa ye-King Mihai I
Anyone who still thinks that Bucharest is a city of concrete
and cement has clearly never been to the city’s lung, the
incomparable Herastrau Park. Quite simply, this glorious
park, spread over 187 hectares around Herastrau lake is
one of the jewels in Bucharest’s crown, which might explain
why half of the city chooses to spend its summer Sunday afternoons here. Fear not though, for so big is Herastrau
that it never gives the impression of being crowded,
and even on the busiest of days you will always be able
to find a quiet, shady corner somewhere. If you look hard
enough. Herastrau was laid out from 1930-36 on what had
until then been mainly marshland around the (natural)
lake. You can
rent bikes from I’Velo, close to the entrance. Rental costs 5
lei per hour, or 15 lei for a full day. Under-16s and over-65s
can rent bikes for free, but for a maximum of two hours.
Arts & Culture
Romanian Athenaeum
1-3 Strada Benjamin FranklinIziko lezokuhlolwa kwezobuciko zeRomania
49-53 Calea VictorieiIziko Antipa
1 Şoseaua Pavel D. KiseleffBucharest National Opera House
70-72 Bulevardul Mihail KogălniceanuDrinks & Nightlife
Control is a place we have
long labelled as ‘a club for people
who don’t like clubs.’ Popular with
young locals fed up with the more
flashy venues that now litter the
capital, you can even eat here (well
into the night) at Alt-Shift upstairs.
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Control Club
4 Strada Constantin MilleControl is a place we have
long labelled as ‘a club for people
who don’t like clubs.’ Popular with
young locals fed up with the more
flashy venues that now litter the
capital, you can even eat here (well
into the night) at Alt-Shift upstairs.
Oktoberfest sells possibly
the cheapest pint in the city centre:
it is a more than drinkable bargain.
Not brewed on the premises it’s
nevertheless a beer you will only
find here. The crowd is young and
during term-time mainly made up of
students
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Oktoberfest Pub
3 Str. FrancezăOktoberfest sells possibly
the cheapest pint in the city centre:
it is a more than drinkable bargain.
Not brewed on the premises it’s
nevertheless a beer you will only
find here. The crowd is young and
during term-time mainly made up of
students
Boasting one of the best addresses in the city this effortlessly
middle class venue is perhaps the most popular
place in Bucharest right now for arty types, fashion people
and general trendies. Situated in the grounds of the early
19th-century Stirbei Palace this place is perhaps a café, bar
and late-night drinker. There is also often music, either
from a DJ or a local act. As such it does get very clubby late
on. Well worth your time, if only to see how the Romanian
other half live: prices are, accordingly, relatively high, but
still cheap by western European standards
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Gradina EDEN
44-46 Calea DorobanțiBoasting one of the best addresses in the city this effortlessly
middle class venue is perhaps the most popular
place in Bucharest right now for arty types, fashion people
and general trendies. Situated in the grounds of the early
19th-century Stirbei Palace this place is perhaps a café, bar
and late-night drinker. There is also often music, either
from a DJ or a local act. As such it does get very clubby late
on. Well worth your time, if only to see how the Romanian
other half live: prices are, accordingly, relatively high, but
still cheap by western European standards
Perhaps the most iconic building in Bucharest. Inside the shell of an old house destroyed during the
1989 revolution a new building has risen, home - fittingly
- to Romania’s architectural association. The cafe (and bar)
which occupies part of the building is more than worthy
of its location, a contemporary space with walls decorated
with scenes from the revolution, where you can enjoy coffee
and cocktails in the company of a good young crowd.
There are tasty sandwiches too, which can be taken away
if you are in a hurry
Permanently Closed
Strada Demetru I. DobrescuPerhaps the most iconic building in Bucharest. Inside the shell of an old house destroyed during the
1989 revolution a new building has risen, home - fittingly
- to Romania’s architectural association. The cafe (and bar)
which occupies part of the building is more than worthy
of its location, a contemporary space with walls decorated
with scenes from the revolution, where you can enjoy coffee
and cocktails in the company of a good young crowd.
There are tasty sandwiches too, which can be taken away
if you are in a hurry
The name means Bicycle, and it will not take
you long to work out why: the place is by and large furnished
and decorated with parts of old bicycles. On the
second floor of a Lipscani house the place boasts a good
long bar, plenty of stools (some of which incorporate old
bike seats) and a couple of leather sofas for those who
want something a bit more comfortable. Coffee by day
and cocktails by night is the order of things, and at the
weekend the place has a DJ and quite frankly rocks.
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Bicicleta
38 Strada LipscaniThe name means Bicycle, and it will not take
you long to work out why: the place is by and large furnished
and decorated with parts of old bicycles. On the
second floor of a Lipscani house the place boasts a good
long bar, plenty of stools (some of which incorporate old
bike seats) and a couple of leather sofas for those who
want something a bit more comfortable. Coffee by day
and cocktails by night is the order of things, and at the
weekend the place has a DJ and quite frankly rocks.
The new location serves food, has live music some evenings but is still first choice to bring somebody you really want to impress with your Bucharest insider’s knowledge.
50 abantu bendawo batusa
Interbelic
17 Strada LipscaniThe new location serves food, has live music some evenings but is still first choice to bring somebody you really want to impress with your Bucharest insider’s knowledge.
A year or so after opening, this place is now
one of Bucharest’s leading after-work and expat venues. A
venue which has plenty going for it, not least the hands-on
owners and the great staff, all concerned clearly know what
an actual pub should look and feel like, which is nothing
less than revolutionary for this city. For instance, it’s got a
great wooden bar and proper stools so you can sit at the
bar itself. (We are fed up with Bucharest pubs telling us we
can’t sit at the bar). Serves plenty of bitter and hosts regular
events, from theme parties and gaming nights to karaoke.
You will find this place at the northern edge of the Old
Town, at the end of the little alley that runs from Lipscani to
Blanari, opposite the church.
Expat Pub
21 Strada BlănariA year or so after opening, this place is now
one of Bucharest’s leading after-work and expat venues. A
venue which has plenty going for it, not least the hands-on
owners and the great staff, all concerned clearly know what
an actual pub should look and feel like, which is nothing
less than revolutionary for this city. For instance, it’s got a
great wooden bar and proper stools so you can sit at the
bar itself. (We are fed up with Bucharest pubs telling us we
can’t sit at the bar). Serves plenty of bitter and hosts regular
events, from theme parties and gaming nights to karaoke.
You will find this place at the northern edge of the Old
Town, at the end of the little alley that runs from Lipscani to
Blanari, opposite the church.
The name (as you might have guessed) means 100 Beers,
and that’s exactly what they have here: beer, and lots of
it, from all over the world. In fact, looking at the menu it
would appear that they stock considerably more than 100
beers, and there is more besides: shorts and cocktails for
those who don’t fancy a beer. Nice long, English-style bar
at which you can sit all night and sample as many beers
as you can.
9 abantu bendawo batusa
La 100 de Beri
61 Strada GabroveniThe name (as you might have guessed) means 100 Beers,
and that’s exactly what they have here: beer, and lots of
it, from all over the world. In fact, looking at the menu it
would appear that they stock considerably more than 100
beers, and there is more besides: shorts and cocktails for
those who don’t fancy a beer. Nice long, English-style bar
at which you can sit all night and sample as many beers
as you can.
Everything Else
None of Bucharest’s sights charge
very much for entrance: even the tour
of Casa Poporului only costs
25 lei.
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Palace of Parliament
7 Bulevardul Nicolae BălcescuNone of Bucharest’s sights charge
very much for entrance: even the tour
of Casa Poporului only costs
25 lei.
Shopping
Bucharest‘s most impressive bookshop is this wonderful building on Strada Lipscani. Dating from the later
part of the 19th century the building was home to a
department store during the communist era, before
standing neglected for almost a quarter of century until reopening earlier this year after a long renovation.
And what a renovation: the building has been brought
back to life by Carturesti‘s team of architects and is that
impressive that even if you are not in the market for
any books, you must pop in to have a look. It is also
perhaps the only shop in Bucharest where the staff do
not tell you off for taking photos: indeed, it‘s positively
encouraged. Besides the tens of thousands of books
and gifts on sale there is gallery and exhibition space,
and a rather good bistro on the top floor
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Cărturești Carusel
55 Strada LipscaniBucharest‘s most impressive bookshop is this wonderful building on Strada Lipscani. Dating from the later
part of the 19th century the building was home to a
department store during the communist era, before
standing neglected for almost a quarter of century until reopening earlier this year after a long renovation.
And what a renovation: the building has been brought
back to life by Carturesti‘s team of architects and is that
impressive that even if you are not in the market for
any books, you must pop in to have a look. It is also
perhaps the only shop in Bucharest where the staff do
not tell you off for taking photos: indeed, it‘s positively
encouraged. Besides the tens of thousands of books
and gifts on sale there is gallery and exhibition space,
and a rather good bistro on the top floor