Mugi to Olive

A lot of shops make two stocks and mix them together just before serving, but this one in a redbrick 80-year-old former train station building blends three soup stocks—chicken, Japanese dashi, and clam—to make its Triple Soba. The umami is outstanding. Lots of the best ramen places have long queues—this one is ideal if you don’t like waiting. It never seems to be super crowded, though you might have a short line of salarymen around lunchtime.